I'll be less queasy with the next board, but cutting the ends off the board was nerve wracking. It was unclear whether to do it before or after gluing the top deck. Also, screwing up was fairly unrecoverable. I cut before gluing the top deck b/c everything was so visible. I could establish a cutting line easily seen without peering between the sandwich of decks, ribs, and blocking.
My Sharpie markings are smeared in this pic b/c I took a can of Zinsser de-waxed spray shellac and coated the insides a couple of times to seal things. Opinions varied on whether this was necessary, but I followed Dennis Murphy's advice: seal the inside or you'll regret it.

This shows the front of the board with my approximate nose shape and marks for where I would cut the board along the diagonal lines. You also see all the spar and rib patches I made after the spar buckled from the pressure exerted from the bottom deck - there's a lot of rocker in the front part of this board & I should have done more to get the bottom deck pre-bent before gluing it to the spar and ribs. Luckily, all this ugliness and poor craftsmanship gets covered up. To make the diagonal front cuts, I clamped on guides and used the pull saws, electing again to stick with hand tools rather than power.
This shows all the blocking done, the tail and nose cut down and the top deck on the floor glued and cut to the basic shape of the board. Cutting the top deck to the basic shape was important -- too much overhang means you can't get the clamps set. Next steps: bending the top deck to shape and gluing it in place.
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